Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item:
Full metadata record
DC FieldValueLanguage
dc.contributor.authorMok, Kai Meng (莫啟明)-
dc.contributor.authorYeh, Harry-
dc.identifier.citationPhysics of fluids, Oct. 1999, v. 11, no. 10, p. 2906-2924en_US
dc.description.abstractThe boundary-layer solutions for progressive edge waves on a uniformly sloping beach are derived. The Larangian mass transport in the cross-shore direction is found to be caused by the viscous effect and it changes direction within the boundary layer. For validation of the theoretical model, laboratory experiments are performed. The measured mass transports of mode 0 and 1 edge waves are in good agreement with the theory qualitatively but not quantitatively. The discrepancies appear to be caused by the failure of the theory near the shoreline, where the boundary layer is no longer thin. The inviscid Stokes drift caused by the nonlinear interactions of different edge-wave modes within the potential flow field is also investigated theoretically and verified by experiments. It is found that near-shore circulation cells can be formed by the nonlinear interactions between differentprogressive edge-wave modes.en_US
dc.publisherAmerican Institute of Physicsen_US
dc.rightsLink to paperen_US
dc.titleOn mass transport of progressive edge wavesen_US
dc.typeJournal Articlesen_US
dc.subject.keywordsBoundary layeren_US
dc.subject.keywordsEdge wavesen_US
dc.subject.keywordsMass transporten_US
dc.subject.keywordsNear-shore circulationen_US
dc.subject.keywordsNonlinear interactionsen_US
dc.subject.keywordsStokes driften_US
Appears in Collections:OTHERS Journal Articles

Files in This Item:
File Description SizeFormat 
8017_0_PhysicsOfFluids_Mok_1999.pdf548.98 kBAdobe PDFView/Open

Items in UMIR are protected by copyright, with all rights reserved, unless otherwise indicated.